HIKING COAST TO COAST ACROSS ENGLAND

My Group of Hikers in the Fells of the Lake District

  

For more than three decades, passionate walkers and hikers from various parts of the world have been drawn to the coast to coast path across England that was mapped and described by the renowned English fell-walker, Alfred Wainwright, in his classic 1973 book, A Coast to Coast Walk.  Known as "Wainwright's Coast to Coast Walk" or the "C2C," the path is an awe-inspiring route that traverses some of England's most beautiful landscapes, including those of the Lake District National Park, the Yorkshire Dales National Park, and the North York Moors National Park.  

While the British are inclined to use the term "walk" rather broadly, my American friends and readers should not be left with the impression that the C2C is a leisurely, recreational stroll.  It is a long-distance hike that often involves steep climbing, equally steep descents, and the crossing of varied and challenging terrain, including boggy areas in the moors.  As Henry Stedman has said in his excellent book, Coast to Coast Path, "let us be clear: the Coast to Coast is a lengthy and in many places tough trek."  

According to Wainwright, the official distance of the C2C is 192 miles; more recent surveys, however, have found that the actual distance is closer to 220 miles.  The path begins in St. Bees, a small village on the Irish Sea, and eventually traverses the Lakeland Fells, the Yorkshire Dales, and the North York moors, before ending in the quaint fishing village of Robin Hoods Bay, which is on the North Sea.

On the evening of Saturday, June 5, 2010, the day after my arrival in St. Bees, I had the privilege of meeting the eleven other people -- four from Australia and seven from the U.K. -- who would be undertaking the C2C with me.  On the following morning, we ascended St. Bees Head, hiked northward on a magnificent coastal path for several miles, and then turned westward in the direction of our ultimate destination on England's eastern coast, Robin Hood's Bay.  Thirteen days later, following one of the greatest experiences of my lifetime, we arrived at our destination, all of us full of joy and many of us somewhat overwhelmed that we had finally  accomplished what we had been planning for months.  As we stood at the edge of the North Sea sharing a bottle of champagne that had been graciously provided by the husband of one of our group, I could not help but think of Yeats' famous line: "Think where man's glory most begins and ends, and say my glory was I had such friends."

Robin Hoods Bay -- The Destination of Wainwright's C2C

Over the coming weeks, I will be editing my photos of the C2C and creating an album or slideshow that will be posted on my blog for those who wish to follow the entire journey visually.  During the meantime, I will be making postings every few days or so about various segments of the journey.  Today, I begin with the first day -- St. Bees to Ennerdale Bridge.  

DAY 1:  ST. BEES TO ENNERDALE BRIDGE

The first day began the traditional dipping of a toe into the Irish Sea and the collection of a pebble to carry across England to the North Sea.  Prudent to a fault, my chosen pebble was extremely small.

We then ascended St. Bees Head and headed northwards along a beautiful coastal path, flanked by the Irish Sea to the west and verdant pastures full of sheep to the east.  After  proceeding around Fleswick Bay and up the coastal cliffs a few more miles, we turned eastward and hiked through through the villages of Sandwith and Moor Row before arriving at Cleator, where we stopped for lunch at a pleasant spot next to the River Ehen.  We then set out to face the steep ascent and descent of our first real challenge, Dent Fell, which was made all the more challenging because of a steady, drizzling rain that had begun during our lunch break.  After descending Dent, we then made our way up the narrow valley of Nannycatch Beck and proceeded to Ennerdale Bridge for a welcomed evening's rest at the Sheperds Arms Hotel.

The Starting Point of the C2C in St. Bees

First Steps up Coastal Path (Other Hikers)

Looking Back on St. Bees from St. Bees Head

Landscape East of St. Bees Head

The Coastal Path Above St. Bees Head

Young Lamb Under Gorse

Headed Toward Fleswick Bay

Descending to Hairpin Turn Around Fleswick Bay

Another Hiker Ascending from Fleswick Bay 

(Note the profusion of wildflowers)

Other Hikers on Path Above Fleswick Bay

Looking Back on Fleswick Bay

Leaving Fleswick Bay

With Fellow Hiker on Cliff Tops

Continuing up Coastal Path

On Coastal Path Above Cliffs

Heading Toward Ennerdale Bridge After Dent Fell

Sheperds Arms Hotel, Ennerdale Bridge

Noticeably absent from the first day's photos are any images of Dent Fell.  The challenges of that ascent and descent, coupled by the wet ground and drizzling rain, required me to leave the camera in my backpack.  No photo is required, however, to retain the memory of that first introduction to the Lakeland Fells that were before me.


Next Posting:  Day 2 -- Ennerdale Bridge to Rosthwaite