HIKING COAST TO COAST ACROSS ENGLAND

My Group of Hikers in the Fells of the Lake District

  

For more than three decades, passionate walkers and hikers from various parts of the world have been drawn to the coast to coast path across England that was mapped and described by the renowned English fell-walker, Alfred Wainwright, in his classic 1973 book, A Coast to Coast Walk.  Known as "Wainwright's Coast to Coast Walk" or the "C2C," the path is an awe-inspiring route that traverses some of England's most beautiful landscapes, including those of the Lake District National Park, the Yorkshire Dales National Park, and the North York Moors National Park.  

While the British are inclined to use the term "walk" rather broadly, my American friends and readers should not be left with the impression that the C2C is a leisurely, recreational stroll.  It is a long-distance hike that often involves steep climbing, equally steep descents, and the crossing of varied and challenging terrain, including boggy areas in the moors.  As Henry Stedman has said in his excellent book, Coast to Coast Path, "let us be clear: the Coast to Coast is a lengthy and in many places tough trek."  

According to Wainwright, the official distance of the C2C is 192 miles; more recent surveys, however, have found that the actual distance is closer to 220 miles.  The path begins in St. Bees, a small village on the Irish Sea, and eventually traverses the Lakeland Fells, the Yorkshire Dales, and the North York moors, before ending in the quaint fishing village of Robin Hoods Bay, which is on the North Sea.

On the evening of Saturday, June 5, 2010, the day after my arrival in St. Bees, I had the privilege of meeting the eleven other people -- four from Australia and seven from the U.K. -- who would be undertaking the C2C with me.  On the following morning, we ascended St. Bees Head, hiked northward on a magnificent coastal path for several miles, and then turned westward in the direction of our ultimate destination on England's eastern coast, Robin Hood's Bay.  Thirteen days later, following one of the greatest experiences of my lifetime, we arrived at our destination, all of us full of joy and many of us somewhat overwhelmed that we had finally  accomplished what we had been planning for months.  As we stood at the edge of the North Sea sharing a bottle of champagne that had been graciously provided by the husband of one of our group, I could not help but think of Yeats' famous line: "Think where man's glory most begins and ends, and say my glory was I had such friends."

Robin Hoods Bay -- The Destination of Wainwright's C2C

Over the coming weeks, I will be editing my photos of the C2C and creating an album or slideshow that will be posted on my blog for those who wish to follow the entire journey visually.  During the meantime, I will be making postings every few days or so about various segments of the journey.  Today, I begin with the first day -- St. Bees to Ennerdale Bridge.  

DAY 1:  ST. BEES TO ENNERDALE BRIDGE

The first day began the traditional dipping of a toe into the Irish Sea and the collection of a pebble to carry across England to the North Sea.  Prudent to a fault, my chosen pebble was extremely small.

We then ascended St. Bees Head and headed northwards along a beautiful coastal path, flanked by the Irish Sea to the west and verdant pastures full of sheep to the east.  After  proceeding around Fleswick Bay and up the coastal cliffs a few more miles, we turned eastward and hiked through through the villages of Sandwith and Moor Row before arriving at Cleator, where we stopped for lunch at a pleasant spot next to the River Ehen.  We then set out to face the steep ascent and descent of our first real challenge, Dent Fell, which was made all the more challenging because of a steady, drizzling rain that had begun during our lunch break.  After descending Dent, we then made our way up the narrow valley of Nannycatch Beck and proceeded to Ennerdale Bridge for a welcomed evening's rest at the Sheperds Arms Hotel.

The Starting Point of the C2C in St. Bees

First Steps up Coastal Path (Other Hikers)

Looking Back on St. Bees from St. Bees Head

Landscape East of St. Bees Head

The Coastal Path Above St. Bees Head

Young Lamb Under Gorse

Headed Toward Fleswick Bay

Descending to Hairpin Turn Around Fleswick Bay

Another Hiker Ascending from Fleswick Bay 

(Note the profusion of wildflowers)

Other Hikers on Path Above Fleswick Bay

Looking Back on Fleswick Bay

Leaving Fleswick Bay

With Fellow Hiker on Cliff Tops

Continuing up Coastal Path

On Coastal Path Above Cliffs

Heading Toward Ennerdale Bridge After Dent Fell

Sheperds Arms Hotel, Ennerdale Bridge

Noticeably absent from the first day's photos are any images of Dent Fell.  The challenges of that ascent and descent, coupled by the wet ground and drizzling rain, required me to leave the camera in my backpack.  No photo is required, however, to retain the memory of that first introduction to the Lakeland Fells that were before me.


Next Posting:  Day 2 -- Ennerdale Bridge to Rosthwaite

WALKING COAST TO COAST ACROSS ENGLAND

Photo by Brian Downing

I am departing tomorrow for England, where I hope to complete a coast-to-coast trek across the country, following the path established in 1972 by Alfred Wainwright, the renowned fell-walker and author of numerous guidebooks about the Lake District.  I will be hiking with a group of about ten people organized by NorthWestWalks (www.northwestwalks.co.uk), a small British company that specializes in walking trips in England and Europe.

The Wainwright path begins in the village of St. Bees, on the Irish Sea, and extends to the village of Robin Hood's Bay, on the North Sea.  It is approximately 200 miles in length and passes through three national parks: The Lake District National Park, The Yorkshire Dales National Park, and the North York Moors National Park. According the Wainwright, "the countryside traversed is beautiful almost everywhere, yet extremely varied in character, with mountains and hills, valleys and rivers, heather moors and sea cliffs combining in a pageant of colorful scenery."

Since I will not be taking a smart phone or laptop on the trip, I do not expect to make any postings to my blog until I return on June 20.  That could change, however, if I find access to any publicly available computers during the trip.

For those interested in seeing the magnificent terrain through which I will be walking, I  recommend that you check out the Brian and Gail Downing Photo Diary, www.byron.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk. In 2005, Brian and Gail completed the same coast-to-coast trip that I am taking.  Their photos provide a visual, day-by-day journal of the trek.

Here's hoping that all will go well and that I will be dipping my toe into the North Sea in the late afternoon of June 18. In any event, I look forward to reconnecting with all of my friends as soon as I return. During the meantime, be well and be happy!

COAST TO COAST, A WALK ACROSS ENGLAND

Photo by Brian Downing

In 1972, Alfred Wainwright, a renowned fell-walker and author of numerous guidebooks about the Lake District, finally completed a project that he had wrestled with for many years -- the establishment of a coast-to-coast walking path across England, from St. Bees on the Irish Sea to Robin Hood's Bay on the North Sea.  Since its creation, the path has enjoyed immense popularity and is now commonly referred to as "Wainwright's Coast to Coast Walk."  The term "walk," however, can be misleading for Americans, who generally use the term to describe a leisurely stroll of a few miles, at most, across relatively flat or slightly undulating terrain.  As Henry Stedman notes, however, in his excellent book, Coast to Coast Path, "let us be clear: the Coast to Coast is a lengthy and in many places tough trek."  

According to Wainwright, the official distance of the trek is 191.5 miles; more recent surveys, however, have declared that it is closer to 220 miles. From the departure point of St. Bees, the path proceeds northwards along the edge of coastal cliffs for a short distance and then moves westerly, eventually crossing three national parks: The Lake District National Park, the Yorkshire Dales National Park, and the North York Moors National Park.  According to Wainwright, "the countryside traversed is beautiful almost everywhere, yet extremely varied in character, with mountains and hills, valleys and rivers, heather moors and sea cliffs combining in a pageant of colorful scenery."  Who can resist that? I certainly can't.

Photo by Brian Downing

I first read about the coast-to-coast walk -- called the "C2C" by aficionados -- several years ago.  I made a copy of the article and placed it in a file, where it remained until last August, at which time I retrieved it, looked at my watch, and discovered to my amazement that I was considerably older than I had imagined.  At sixty-six (now a year older), I knew that the trek was not going to get any easier in the future, and, therefore, the time had come to seize the proverbial bull by the horns.  In any event, I needed a new challenge to placate my pesky old companion, Goethe, who slumbers in my brain each night, mumbling his now-famous dictum:  

    Whatever you can do, or dream you can, begin it. 
    Boldness has genius, power, and magic in it.

Pressed into action, I made my reservations and committed myself to hike at least 1,000 miles before beginning the C2C.  As of today, I have completed 975 miles of that goal  and will complete the remaining miles within the next few days.  A good start, I believe, but it remains to be seen whether there will be "a slip between cup and lip." I have prepared well; I have purchased reliable gear; I have a strong commitment to completing the trek; and, thus far, I have resisted the advice of those who suggest that it might be more prudent to take a short walk through Burgundy, punctuated, of course, by frequent stops at patisseries, bistros, and vineyards that offer free wine samplings. This is a tempting recommendation, without question, but a walk through France will have to wait for another day.  I love walking, I love the prospect of challenging terrain, and I plan to press on from St. Bees to Robin Hood's Bay, come hell or high water. As for those recalcitrant volcanoes in Iceland, we will just wait and hope for the best.

Photo by Brian Downing

So, here's the plan.  I will be leaving in early June for Manchester, England, from which I will take a train to St. Bees, a small coastal village to the north.  On June 5, after the traditional dipping of a toe into the Irish Sea, I will head up the coastal cliffs above St. Bees and veer westerly toward the Lake District.  Assuming that all goes according to plan, I should reach my destination of Robin Hood's Bay thirteen days later.  At that point, I will dip my toe into the North Sea -- also in keeping with tradition -- and promptly report to a convivial pub to join my fellow trekkers in lifting a few pints.

Wainwright's Hand-drawn Map of Coast-to-Coast Walk

When I return, I will be posting several blogs to cover my experiences on the trek.  I will also be posting some photos that, hopefully, will encourage others to embark upon the C2C or some other long-distance trail.  The world is waiting for us, and Goethe is right: Boldness has genius, power, and magic in it.

Since I have yet to make the trek, I have illustrated this posting with photos taken by Brian Downing, who, accompanied by his wife, Gail, completed Wainwright's coast-to-coast walk in 2005.  For those who wish to see the beauty of the trek in all of its daily detail, I suggest that you go to Brian and Gail Downing Photo Diary,   http://www.byron.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk. Brian and Gail have done a great service for all who wish to walk the C2C, either literally or vicariously.