COAST TO COAST, A WALK ACROSS ENGLAND

Photo by Brian Downing

In 1972, Alfred Wainwright, a renowned fell-walker and author of numerous guidebooks about the Lake District, finally completed a project that he had wrestled with for many years -- the establishment of a coast-to-coast walking path across England, from St. Bees on the Irish Sea to Robin Hood's Bay on the North Sea.  Since its creation, the path has enjoyed immense popularity and is now commonly referred to as "Wainwright's Coast to Coast Walk."  The term "walk," however, can be misleading for Americans, who generally use the term to describe a leisurely stroll of a few miles, at most, across relatively flat or slightly undulating terrain.  As Henry Stedman notes, however, in his excellent book, Coast to Coast Path, "let us be clear: the Coast to Coast is a lengthy and in many places tough trek."  

According to Wainwright, the official distance of the trek is 191.5 miles; more recent surveys, however, have declared that it is closer to 220 miles. From the departure point of St. Bees, the path proceeds northwards along the edge of coastal cliffs for a short distance and then moves westerly, eventually crossing three national parks: The Lake District National Park, the Yorkshire Dales National Park, and the North York Moors National Park.  According to Wainwright, "the countryside traversed is beautiful almost everywhere, yet extremely varied in character, with mountains and hills, valleys and rivers, heather moors and sea cliffs combining in a pageant of colorful scenery."  Who can resist that? I certainly can't.

Photo by Brian Downing

I first read about the coast-to-coast walk -- called the "C2C" by aficionados -- several years ago.  I made a copy of the article and placed it in a file, where it remained until last August, at which time I retrieved it, looked at my watch, and discovered to my amazement that I was considerably older than I had imagined.  At sixty-six (now a year older), I knew that the trek was not going to get any easier in the future, and, therefore, the time had come to seize the proverbial bull by the horns.  In any event, I needed a new challenge to placate my pesky old companion, Goethe, who slumbers in my brain each night, mumbling his now-famous dictum:  

    Whatever you can do, or dream you can, begin it. 
    Boldness has genius, power, and magic in it.

Pressed into action, I made my reservations and committed myself to hike at least 1,000 miles before beginning the C2C.  As of today, I have completed 975 miles of that goal  and will complete the remaining miles within the next few days.  A good start, I believe, but it remains to be seen whether there will be "a slip between cup and lip." I have prepared well; I have purchased reliable gear; I have a strong commitment to completing the trek; and, thus far, I have resisted the advice of those who suggest that it might be more prudent to take a short walk through Burgundy, punctuated, of course, by frequent stops at patisseries, bistros, and vineyards that offer free wine samplings. This is a tempting recommendation, without question, but a walk through France will have to wait for another day.  I love walking, I love the prospect of challenging terrain, and I plan to press on from St. Bees to Robin Hood's Bay, come hell or high water. As for those recalcitrant volcanoes in Iceland, we will just wait and hope for the best.

Photo by Brian Downing

So, here's the plan.  I will be leaving in early June for Manchester, England, from which I will take a train to St. Bees, a small coastal village to the north.  On June 5, after the traditional dipping of a toe into the Irish Sea, I will head up the coastal cliffs above St. Bees and veer westerly toward the Lake District.  Assuming that all goes according to plan, I should reach my destination of Robin Hood's Bay thirteen days later.  At that point, I will dip my toe into the North Sea -- also in keeping with tradition -- and promptly report to a convivial pub to join my fellow trekkers in lifting a few pints.

Wainwright's Hand-drawn Map of Coast-to-Coast Walk

When I return, I will be posting several blogs to cover my experiences on the trek.  I will also be posting some photos that, hopefully, will encourage others to embark upon the C2C or some other long-distance trail.  The world is waiting for us, and Goethe is right: Boldness has genius, power, and magic in it.

Since I have yet to make the trek, I have illustrated this posting with photos taken by Brian Downing, who, accompanied by his wife, Gail, completed Wainwright's coast-to-coast walk in 2005.  For those who wish to see the beauty of the trek in all of its daily detail, I suggest that you go to Brian and Gail Downing Photo Diary,   http://www.byron.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk. Brian and Gail have done a great service for all who wish to walk the C2C, either literally or vicariously.